Reminiscing On Pyer Moss Collection 3: “Sister”
Since the recent announcement of Pyer Moss returning to NYFW this upcoming September was released, I think it’s very appropriate to reminisce on Raymond’s most previous collection and fashion presentation. It was a moment to remember and the video still touches me the same way each time I revisit — it will probably be one of those timeless moments in fashion history that we wish we could relive. And maybe we will get to sooner than we think with September approaching.
Collection 3 titled “Sister” was the final collection of Raymond’s American, Also series. And this series certainly went out with a bang. The show was held at King’s Theatre in Flatbush, Brooklyn, where Mr. Raymond grew up. The show began with an intimate performance by Brent Faiyaz followed by a spoken word by Casey Gerald. Gerald shared the story of Fannie Mae, some words to express the feelings of the black community, and a brief acknowledgement to black pioneers of Rock-and-Roll such as Little Richard and Rosetta Thorpe, which was the perfect introduction for the show to follow.
Model Chavis St. Hill opened the show and graced down the runway while the amazing, live choir belched angelic melodies. The live music certainly set the mood for the show. The choir sang negro spirituals most of us probably grew up listening to at home or in the church, throwback jams by Missy Elliot, and even put their own twist on songs of today like some of Cardi B’s hit singles. This combination of live music and a live fashion presentation was a perfect example of how most times in black culture these two go hand in hand. There is a certain lifestyle/wardrobe you embody when you’re a lover of hip hop or even when you’re a gospel singer. It is second nature for us to do something and make it fly. And that is exactly what Kerby did with this show.
The collection felt like black rock-and-roll and what it would have been if rock-and-roll would have stayed black. Raymond was paying homage to Rosetta Tharpe, the queer black woman who invented rock-and-roll in the 1940s but is rarely credited for her contribution. The garments featured silhouettes and shapes that resembled a guitar, graphics of guitars, and even bags that were made in the exact shape of a guitar. There was great tailoring, chic footwear, and elevated sportswear. But, the piece of show, in my opinion, was this white skirt that was layered with multiple, curved panels featuring contrast stitching and silver hardware around the edges of each panel. This skirt felt nostalgic, but futuristic at the same time. It was intricate, and also pleasantly simple. Ok, the simple part may be a stretch, but the model wore it so well and made it look effortless. That comes as no surprise though, as the entire show featured such a great casting curated by casting director, Katherine Mateo.
The collection also included pieces that featured iconic brands of black culture such as Fubu and Sean John. Raymond re-energized these brands with a sharp, velvet suit and a vibrant, leather two-piece jacket and pants set. From the music to the clothing to the setting, this entire show felt like a nod to many black artists that have contributed to the shift of pushing our culture to the forefront. Black culture has been at the forefront in many spaces, but when it comes to credit, we are often left out of the discussion. This show said “we know our value, we know what we’ve done, and we know y’all love it.”
I think Raymond’s American, Also series was very necessary and sparked a well overdue conversation. In terms of the fashion industry, when they think of America, the American dream, and American fashion, they will quickly identify Ralph Lauren. But Pyer Moss is saying Black America exists too and our contribution to the American culture is valid. After this heartfelt presentation, I’m sure more black designers will be included in the conversation of American fashion and the American life.
In typical Pyer Moss fashion, the show concluded with Mr. Raymond on stage with his beloved staff as the brand stands on friends and family. And as the models made their way backstage chants of “We gon’ be alright” echoed throughout King’s Theatre.
